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This article was posted on Green Building Advisor.com and has a wealth of information on vapor barriers. New homes today are more air and water tight then ever which you think would be good. It can be until you have a problem and water infiltrates the barrier. Since the membranes today are so effective, once the water has penetrated the home it gets “trapped” in the sheeting goods and sealed with the vapor barrier. The sheeting disintegrates very quickly with the moisture trapped.
Posted on Aug 5 by Peter Yost
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10-year old homes shouldn’t rot Extensive moisture damage from leaky can lights and a complete lack of drying potential. Foil-faced polyisocyanurate rigid insulation on the interior of the cathedral ceiling and the roof membrane on the exterior sheathing means two competing vapor barriers. A vapor profile evaluation of this assembly would have saved this roof.
Today’s walls, roofs, and floors are better insulated, tighter, and made with a much greater variety of components than they used to be, making them a lot more susceptible to moisture problems when they get wet. Compared to the old days, today’s walls and ceilings are more complicated and can be very slow to dry.
Poorly crafted building codes are blamed for many examples of confusion, and the confusion over vapor retarders and vapor barriers is no exception. To design and build energy efficient and durable building assemblies, following the code is not enough. We need a new approach — such as the vapor profile.
What is a vapor profile?
A vapor profile is an assessment of the vapor permeabilities of each component in a building assembly (a wall, ceiling, or roof). This assessment determines the assembly’s drying potential and its drying direction. The vapor profile shows whether the building assembly protects itself from getting wet and how it dries when it gets wet.
“Moisture profile” might be a better term than “vapor profile,” because winning the moisture battle means keeping track of all phases or expressions of water. But vapor profile ties the term to “vapor retarder” and “vapor barrier,” terms that focus on that one layer and whether that layer restricts wetting by vapor diffusion. Vapor profile is about all layers and is as much about drying as it is about wetting.
Four steps to a vapor profile
Examining the vapor profile is a 4-step process:
1. Determine the vapor permeability of each component
This can be a lot more difficult than it sounds. Various building product manufacturers are not consistent in the ways they measure and report vapor permeability. Different standardized tests are used for different products. Also, the vapor permeability of many building materials is not constant — it can change as the material’s moisture content rises or falls.
Make sure that you get numbers for every material or component in your assembly, and obtain the actual test used and units reported. A good start is the Building Materials Property Table from BSC.
2. Identify the least vapor permeable component(s)
It’s important to identify the component or components that most restricts the wetting and drying potential of the assembly. To understand the robustness or sensitivity of the assembly to moisture accumulation, it’s important to know how many low-permeance materials there are, and where they are located.
I suggest following the vapor retarder class system established by Joe Lstiburek of Building Science Corporation:
Class I Vapor Retarder (vapor barrier): less than or equal to 0.1 perms
Class II Vapor Retarder: less than or equal to 1 perm and greater than 0.1 perms
Vapor III Vapor Retarder: greater than 1 perm but less than 10 perms
This classification is based on results from ASTM E-96 A (the dessicant or dry cup method). Any material greater than 10 perms is considered vapor permeable.
NOTE: The next two steps are not really sequential; you consider them together because they tell you about how to keep things from getting wet and also about letting them dry when they do get wet.
3. Assess the extent and direction of vapor drive
You need to consider the following:
a. Outdoor conditions, including temperature and relative humidity. It’s important to know how extreme and sustained the expected temperature differences are (with respect to the building interior). For more information, see Climate Consultant 4.
b. Indoor conditions — Interior moisture loads, interior setpoints and the type and extent of space conditioning (active heating, cooling, humidification and dehumidification, ventilation).
The question you are trying to answer is: Do I need a vapor retarder somewhere in the assembly to restrict the movement of vapor INTO the assembly?
4. Assess the moisture storage capacity and drying potential of the assembly
The next question you are trying to answer is: Do I have at least one way for vapor to GET OUT of the assembly?
An assembly with two vapor retarders or barriers on opposite sides of the assembly means that there is little to no drying potential in either direction. That can be a real problem brewing unless you design and detail for extraordinary moisture management protecting this assembly from wetting.
[Click to enlarge]
This wall can dry in OR out.
This wall can dry in OR out.
Example 1 – an acceptable vapor profile
In this example, we have taken a representative GBA wall construction detail and assigned actual materials for each component of the assembly.
Step 1: Assess vapor permeabilities
How do you determine the vapor permeability of your building materials?
In this example, all of the numbers came from the BSC table mentioned earlier.
Note that two numbers are in quotes. In the case of the air space it means that vapor moves so freely in air that it is as vapor permeable as it gets.
In the case of wood siding, the quotes indicate an “equivalent” vapor permeability. This means that although the lab test of a piece of wood siding (pine, in this case) may yield a vapor permeability of around 2.5 or so, all the gaps between the installed wood clapboards in a wall assembly permit enough air circulation in between clapboards that the effective permeability is MUCH higher (35).
NOTE: If you can’t find the numbers you need in this table, you will have to search the Web or contact the manufacturer and tell them you need this information or you can’t use their product. That should get their attention.
Step 2: Identify the least permeable component
After you have all the numbers, it is pretty easy to pick the one, or maybe two, most restrictive layers in the wall assembly, in terms of vapor permeability.
Note that 1 inch of XPS insulation at 1 perm is NOT vapor impermeable. However, it is the most restrictive, which means that MOST drying will take place to its interior or exterior. Also note that the near vapor impermeability of the oil-based paint is managed or overridden by the air space and the functional or equivalent vapor permeabilty of the wood siding as installed (with lots of little air gaps).
Step 3: Assess the vapor drive(s)
We don’t know what the interior and exterior temperature/relative humidity regimes for this assembly are; we have not picked a location or interior conditions — but…
Step 4: Assess storage and drying capacity
…since there is such great drying potential on either side of the XPS, this assembly is well-suited to a wide range of climatic, site, and interior conditions.
Growing your Space
Aug 2
Here’s a article that deals with using the space that you already have. It’s a popular idea now due to the economic times and the housing market.
Grow the Space You Have
Transforming existing raw space into an extra bedroom, a playroom, or a guest or master suite is an
affordable way to make your house bigger. You can also winterize an unheated sunroom or porch to
transform a two- or three-season room into a year-round retreat. You can transform a two-bedroom,
two-bath house into a “new” three-bedroom, three-bathroom house just by making your unused space
livable!
Be Your Own Project Manager
Finishing the existing raw space in your home for livability requires the help of specialists in
several trades: plumbing, carpentry, electrical, and others, including flooring and possibly
stoneworking for tile work. So while it’s not a do-it-yourself job, you can manage the project
yourself and become your own general contractor. That way, you’ll save money and choose and work
with the tradespeople whom you really like. Managing the project gives you tremendous control over
personnel, quality control, and finishes.
You’re the boss! Here are the basic steps you’ll want to follow:
* Set aside some time
Expect to spend from 1 to several hours a day for several months dealing with some aspect of
the renovation. Managing the transformation of any space in your home does not require you to be
on-site every minute, but you do have to check in often, inspect the work as it progresses, pay
bills, consult with the tradespeople who are on the site, coordinate with and schedule the
tradespeople who need to come in, make sure the site is organized safely and in a way that protects
workers (and therefore your liability), monitor rubbish removal, and troubleshoot.
* Determine Your Budget
Every decision you make flows from your budget, from how much to spend on flooring to how
fancy you want your bathroom fixtures to be.
* Decide How You Want to Use the Space
Will it be an extra bedroom and bath, a family room, or a children’s playroom? The function
will help inform many of the finishes you choose. For example, a children’s playroom may benefit
from a hardwood floor partially covered by a large rug. How elaborate do you want the bathroom to
be? If you are transforming a space into a master suite, the bathroom should have double vanities
and a glass enclosure for the shower, which should have extra wall and overhead showerheads.
* Gather the Right Professionals
Several professionals are involved in an addition project. They include:
o Architect
o Carpenter and/or drywall contractor
o Flooring contractor
o Licensed electrician
o HVAC specialist
o Licensed plumber
o Window supplier/installer
Keeping up on the EPA’s new law is part of being a good remodeling contractor. Homeowners should be informed on the law that broadly effects the remodeling industry. It seems the opposition to the new ruling is gaining ground as illustrated in this article.
WASHINGTON–(BUSINESS WIRE)–A coalition of housing industry groups joined the National Association of Home Builders (NAHB) today in announcing plans to file a lawsuit against the federal Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) for removing the “opt-out” provision from its Lead: Renovation, Repair and Painting rule.
“About 79 million homes are affected, even though EPA estimates that only 38 million homes contain lead-based paint. Removing the opt-out provision extends the rule to consumers who need no protection.”
The Lead: Renovation, Repair and Painting rule (LRRP) applies to homes constructed before 1978 when lead paint was banned. Its opt-out provision, which expired July 6, let consumers allow contractors to bypass extra preparation, clean-up and recordkeeping requirements in homes where there were no children under 6 or pregnant women, thus avoiding additional costs.
“Removing the opt-out provision more than doubles the number of homes subject to the regulation,” said NAHB Chairman Bob Jones, a home builder and developer in Bloomfield Hills, Mich. “About 79 million homes are affected, even though EPA estimates that only 38 million homes contain lead-based paint. Removing the opt-out provision extends the rule to consumers who need no protection.”
The Hearth, Patio & Barbecue Association, the National Lumber and Building Material Dealers Association and the Window and Door Manufacturers Association joined NAHB in filing the petition for review in the U.S. Court of Appeals for the D.C. Circuit.
The group will challenge EPA’s action on the grounds that the agency substantially amended its LRRP regulation without any new scientific data and before the regulation was even put into place on April 22, 2010.
“Even under the original rule, the opt-out provision was not available in homes where small children or pregnant women live,” Jones said. “That shows that this change provides no additional protection to the people who are most vulnerable to lead-based paint hazards.”
Remodelers’ and other contractors’ estimates of the additional costs associated with the lead-safe work practices average about $2,400, but vary according to the size and type of job. For example, a complete window replacement requires the contractor to install thick vinyl sheeting to surround the work area both inside the home and outdoors – with prep time and material costs adding an estimated $60 to $170 for each window.
“Consumers trying to use rebates and incentive programs to make their homes more energy efficient will likely find those savings eaten up by the costs of the rule’s requirements. Worse, these costs may drive many consumers – even those with small children – to seek uncertified remodelers and other contractors. Others will likely choose to do the work themselves – or not do it at all – to save money. That does nothing to protect the population this rule was designed to safeguard,” Jones said.
ABOUT NAHB: The National Association of Home Builders is a Washington-based trade association representing more than 175,000 members involved in home building, remodeling, multifamily construction, property management, subcontracting, design, housing finance, building product manufacturing and other aspects of residential and light commercial construction. NAHB is affiliated with 800 state and local home builders associations around the country.
The EPA has just issued a new press release indicating that the certification to comply has been postponed. It basically gives remodeling contractors more time to become certified. It does not mean however that the new mandate can be ignored til then. See the new ruling and click on this link. New deadline
This informative article can help get the homeowner going on a bathroom remodel. A good well planned bathroom remodel can increase the homes value tremendously.
Bathroom Remodeling Ideas & Tips
Following are some remodeling ideas for the three basic types of baths: the half bath/powder room, the full bath/master bathroom, and the extended bath (though infrequent in its application)
Ceiling
If you are removing the ceiling drywall you are probably exposing your exhaust fan, ventilation duct. – So now is the time to verify that its discharge route is an open and unobstructed channel. Most fan units do require coverage by drywall so replacing the exhaust fan with a one that moves ample cfm may make sense at this time.
Walls / Vanities
Most bathroom projects require the removal of drywall from the wall framing. If so, since the tub mount flange does run beneath the drywall, and reinstall requires re-drywall anyway, an idea may be to inspect the tub/shower unit while or prior to it being exposed. [See Bathroom tub refinishing that may or may not require the removal of drywall, if this is a concern. Or Bathroom Tubs and Showers for a new install]
Any areas exposed to wetness or heavy moisture should receive greenboard. For finishing, prime and two finsh coats with an eggshell or greater sheen paint finish. See wall painting for further ideas.
Wallpaper can be hung in baths but use extra care and caution in the application, because moisture can result in lifting or separation away from the surface. Be sure there is adequate ventilation to let out the moisture to help minimize this effect.
If storage space is a concern, due to dimensions confined by the walls, consider adjoining the bathroom with a connected bedroom closet & check into a bath closet organizer scheme.
Flooring
Stone and tile can seem to find a natural element in the bath, adding an element of permanence. Some of the higher grade vinyls have their points, especially when it comes to maintenance and care. However, whichever floor type you decide on – consider that the surface should offer some grip to it for walking barefoot, one that is slip resistant.
Laying out the floor design, or at least reviewing this with your tile contractor or remodeling contractor, whoever is doing the work, can mean a huge difference in the finished appearance. Setting the pattern on the diagonal can break up the monotony of a more confined area, as can many custom designs. As an extra tip, and to many homeowners surprise, setting larger floor squares can actually create the illusion of having a larger floor area over on composed mainly of many smaller tiles, depending on other factors. Sketch this out and see for yourself prior to committing.
Too as a word of caution, remember that when any old flooring or tile is removed that it is not uncommon to have to replace the subfloor underneath from possible rotting or deterioration, especially around the toilet or supply lines area.
Windows and Lighting
Bathroom lighting and window alternatives may seem scant in many situations, certainly with the half bath or powder room dimensions. Here, abundant use of mirrors and combination wall/ ceiling fixtures may be the best overall bet. But also, another idea is to carry a variation of room themes into the bath. This can create a “connecting atmosphere” between the two and help blur any sharply defined borders..
Screened windows and angular boxed skylights can give a sense of added dimensional space, an may add a needed ventilation option. Some of the newer skylights offer remote openers which you may want to consider.
Tips/Ideas on Half Baths/Powder Rooms: MAXIMIZING SPACE
Additional ideas may be structural – if cramped for space you may want to investigate the chances if moving a common wall outward (if you are in a position to compromise space) or it may be also found in the details.
With permanent fixtures – set back any obstructing into the usable space wherever possible. Recessed can lighting, even toilet paper holders can be sunk back into cabinets and walls. Medicine cabinets can go into wall cavities if the framing was placed to accommodate this, centered over the sink.
Anything that commits unused space, you may want to consider. Typical swinging doors vs pocket doors; this will require that the wall be opening to frame for the pocket door, but this may be the case anyway. Shower doors need not always swing but many can be fitted with a slider and thus conserve space.
More ideas for maximizing the use of your square footage includes: eliminating sharp edges, notable on vanity counters which can obstruct the flow of traffic. These forms can usually be radiused. Freestanding sink tables in place of vanities can supply a source of readily accessible items, again eliminating the outward swing of doors.
Miscellaneous
Taking the proactive approach of planning an organized progress schedule for the remodeling of your bathroom is important. Remember, this is one of the most relied on areas of the home. Taking the proper time before the start of project and working in cooperation with your remodeling contractor can cannot only make this a bearable experience it can make a key difference in the time to completion, the way the remodeling project progresses and finishes and completes.
8 Reasons to Remodel
Apr 28
Visit this article for some great reasons to get your home remodeled this year.
Drywall Prices
Apr 24
This article is a very good reference for the homeowner considering dry-walling their home. Finishing drywall is a learned skill and PHB Construction strongly suggests having a professional finish your space. An experienced finisher, PHB Construction can have the dirty, dusty job done and ready for paint in no time.
Click on this link to view article. “Drywall Prices”
The BBB along with quite a few other organizations advise you to get three bids for any project you want done. Why? Well you do want the best price right, and isn’t that all that matters? If you do believe that price is all that matters, ask yourself; Is it truly the best price if the job isn’t done right the first time?
While the letter is mainly geared towards my friends roofing customers, it has some really good advice for anyone selecting a remodeling contractor. Thanks goes out to Ed Fako of Right Way Roofing Company for the letter below and of course being nice enough to allow us to re-post.
Dear Mr. and Mrs. Homeowner,
I would like to address the vulnerability you are subjecting yourselves to by going out and requesting 3 bids for your project. Maybe the advise should be to make sure that you get the best qualified contractor to do the job right in the first place, instead of worrying about problems down the road. The 3-bid suggestion is just there so you can hopefully get lucky and find one who fits that category. Would you be astounded to hear that according to major roofing related manufacturers, that over 90 % of all roofs do not qualify for the manufacturers long term peace of mind warranty, from the initial installation time? I know I am. And, That’s a proven fact!
I know what you have been told; “Go out and get at least 3 bids”, and throw away the contractors bid at the bottom and the contractors bid at the top and select the one in the middle. After all, isn’t that what almost every single, “How to Choose a Contractor Guide” suggests you do. Isn’t this the only way to ensure you do not get the low ball fly-by-nighter or the contractor who has to charge too much to justify his overhead or just wants to make too much profit from your job?
When you decided you had a need for this particular project, did you say to yourself?
“Gee, I want to make sure I get somebody who does not provide me with the full scope of work we need to validate the manufacturers full length warranty, (even if we do not really know what specifications those are yet), and I also want to make sure they do not have enough experience for this type of project?
Of course you didn’t! That would be foolish and absurd!
Well then, that obviously eliminates anybody who would not spend the proper amount of time with you to be able to assess your projects complete requirements, while attempting to remain within your financial means to afford this enhancement to your home.
From years upon years of experience, we have discovered that the majority of bid work usually omits many of the necessary items that should have been included in the first place. We have chosen a different path. We decided that it would be better to explain the proper price for the job being done correctly at the beginning, rather than have to make excuses for the lack of quality for years to come.
Do you really think that there are so many corrupt or deceitful contractors out there? Actually, no there are not. The unfortunate consequence of requiring multiple contractors to be bidding on the same project without pre-determined specifications to be met, is that most contractors feel compelled to find ways to cut corners to be able to “Win” the job. There is a necessity to “Make the Sale”, no matter what the consequences. Get the job at all costs, or should I say for all lack of costs, which also means lack of proper value.
Well now, what will happen next, once the job starts. Here are two possible scenarios;
A) The contractor will do all of the minimal work specified in the contract, hoping that no one alerts you to the fact that additional specifications should have been included in the first place. If you never find out that some specs were omitted, Great Job. Everybody is happy. That is until things do not work as they were intended.
Even though, “Roofing is Not Brain Surgery”; There are many Wrong ways to roof a house. But…There is only…One “Right Way” to do it and that is “By Following All of the Manufacturers Specifications”. Remember; Over 90 % of All Shingle Roofs Done – DO NOT Qualify for the Manufacturers Long Term Warranty!!! ( This is; According to studies by GAF Roofing Corp., Air Vent Inc., & Alcoa ). Did you really expect that brand new 30 or 50 year roof you put on to look good and remain functional after 10-12 years? Oh, you did! Were you educated about the manufacturers specs? How do you know if all of the manufacturers’ specifications or industry guidelines were followed?
But, if the building inspector approves it, doesn’t that mean it was done correctly? Yes and No! The building inspector is only there to ensure that the “Minimum” specifications were followed. That means that they pass things all the time, where some contractors only do the least amount of work to just barely be on the legal side of the ordinances. Is this what you want, a “barely passed minimum standards job”?
B) On the other hand, what if you realize that the project is not advancing towards your vision you started out with? Aha, you inform the contractor that more work needs to be included in the project scope. Great!!! The contractor replies, but first, Mr. and Mrs. Homeowner, please sign these additional work change order forms. That work you now realize that you needed to have included, was not in our initial bid! We thought we were doing you a favor, by keeping the costs down for you, isn’t that what you wanted?
So, what is a homeowner to do? The best that you can do is to find a contractor who is proposing to do the job 100 % the Right Way, right off the bat. Make sure that you spend time with each contractor to interview them on how they will approach the project. Make sure that you have an open line of communication with that contractor. Make sure that the written proposal is extensively detailed so that there is no confusion as to what you are receiving for your investment. Make sure that you know what the obligations and responsibilities are of both you and the contractor. Make sure that they supplied you with multiple references of similar jobs they have done in your neighborhood. Make sure that you are protected, by receiving copies of their workers compensation and general liability insurance certificates. Make sure that they have been a licensed contractor, going by the same company name for at least 5-10 years. Verify anything that they are telling you if they do not provide the back up documentation as part of their proposal package. If you have doubts about any suggestions they have made, then have them back up their reasoning with industry related technical reports or articles.
After you have done all of this, which contractor do you now believe is going to give you the Right Job for the Right Price?
More than likely, the only one out of the original 3 bidders, who even had a shot at producing the right results, was the supposedly highest priced contractor. Now, can you see that the highest bid, probably is not really the highest cost to you, but the only one to have provided the proper value to the specifications to ensure your warranty is validated by doing it the Right Way, per the Manufacturers Specifications?
The bottom line is that only the right “Qualified” bidder should even be considered in the 1st place.
This article can help shed some light on what homeowners should be expecting after the April 22nd 2010 deadline. PHB Construction LLC is certified in lead safe work practices and documented by the state.
The EPA’s mandate to the remodeling industry is looming near. After April 22, 2010 if 6 square feet or more of painted surface is disturbed lead safe work practices of containment of work area and HEPA vacuums are required. Also, a state class must be attended and a test passed for renovator certification. The penalty can mean a $35,700 fine per infraction.